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The Australian Route Register

Sweet Dreams      

This route is unlocked for editing.
  - 08 Central Tablelands (inc. The Blue Mountains)
    - 03. Leura (incl. Sublime Pt, Mt Hay, etc)
      - 01. Sublime Point
        - Main Area
Grade:14 (consensus)
FFA:Ted Batty & Bryden AllenFFA Date:1963-00-00
Author:StuEntry Date:2008-12-17
Start:After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.
Description:One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent.
Pitch 1:20m 14 (consensus from 29 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney and up to ledge and tree belay.
Pitch 2:30m 10 (consensus from 23 ascents; FA grade: 10)
Crack to block and bolt belay.
Pitch 3:33m 13 (consensus from 23 ascents; FA grade: 13)
Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay.
Pitch 4:30m 13 (consensus from 23 ascents; FA grade: 13)
Up a few bolts then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner.
Pitch 5:37m 14 (consensus from 21 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the Variant Finish (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.
Pitch 6:20m 10 (consensus from 17 ascents; FA grade: 10)
If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.


Recent Ascents

MaccizaP1Sweet DreamsHard with a packsolo2012-09-22
MaccizaP2Sweet DreamsRoped - no gear . . .solo2012-09-22
MaccizaP3Sweet DreamsRoped - some nuts . .solo2012-09-22
MaccizaP4Sweet DreamsRoped - some nutssolo2012-09-22
MaccizaP5Sweet DreamsRoped - more nutssolo2012-09-22
scottahP1Sweet Dreamssecond (clean)152012-04-28
scottahP2Sweet Dreamssecond (clean)2012-04-28
scottahP3Sweet Dreamsfree2012-04-28
scottahP4Sweet Dreamsfree2012-04-28
scottahP5Sweet Dreamssecond (clean)2012-04-28
scottahP6Sweet Dreamssecond (clean)2012-04-28
eijkelP1Sweet Dreamsonsight2012-01-09
eijkelP2Sweet DreamsDidnt have any gear... Thought there would be more than just one boltonsight2012-01-09

Copyright, ACA, 2012