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The Australian Route Register
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|FFA:||D Tanner, Chris Regan||FFA Date:||1963-00-00|
|Description:||A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.|
|Pitch 1:||50m 14 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 14)|
|As for pitches 1 and 2 of Sweet Dreams. DBB.|
|Pitch 2:||60m 16 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 16)|
|Up Sweet Dreams to first bolt then continue in that line up the slabby wall towards corner. A bolt will be seen after ~50m, this protects the crux. Other protection from cams at various horizontal breaks. Belay in a short chimney above a bush, in the corner. This pitch can be easily split into two with a belay on a big tree half way up it.|
|Pitch 3:||35m 15 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 15)|
|Up chimney then short corner above and onto blocky rubble covered ledge to right. Up short vertical wall at right of this ledge to traverse line (#3.5 or 4 Camalot), traverse right (another cam), around nose (exposed and exciting) to base of left facing corner. Cams and small wires needed for belay.|
|Pitch 4:||30m 15 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 15)|
|Up the corner and broken blocks to top.|
Copyright, ACA, 2012