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The Australian Route Register


This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Central Buttress (+ Sabre Gully)
Grade:26 (consensus), 26 (given by FA)
Total Bolts:
Will Monks
FA:Kevin Lindorff, Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman (as a present from Will Monks when he left!)FA Date:2009-10-31
Author:willmonksEntry Date:2009-11-14
Start:Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of Simpleton, and 8m L of the start of Missing.
Description:Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the Grampians. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of Simpleton, walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up Simpleton and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt.
Description:Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy.


Copyright, ACA, 2012