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The Australian Route Register
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Neil Monteith (p1), Will Monks (p2)20
|FA:||Neil Monteith (p1) ||FA Date:||2011-01-00|
|Start:||Start 5m left of Marxism.
|Description:||A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch bolt ladder and free climb (15M3) up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in Ewbanks guidebook as "Vespian's Wall" but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. |
|Pitch 1:||33m 25 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 25) - 9 bolts|
|Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. In its current 1 pitch state, it finishes at the new anchor 5m below the ramp (25m to the ground), not at the manky old chain 6m lower. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt). |
|Pitch 2:||33m - (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: -) - 11 bolts|
|Closed project. Steps R to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano. The starting DRB and 4th RB are positioned to re-use old holes drilled by persons unknown (and other holes were patched); they also left 4 or 5 UB holes for ~12m above the belay to a blank dead end, 2-4m left of this pitch. |
Copyright, ACA, 2012