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The Australian Route Register

Tokyo Rose

This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Taipan Wall
Grade:18 (consensus)
FA:James McIntosh & Melanie TawsFA Date:1987-06-13
Author:nmonteithEntry Date:2005-11-22
Start:Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.
Description:Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead).
Pitch 1:25m 18 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 18)
Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left below the roof, crossing Atomic Tadpole to belay on the arete.
Pitch 2:20m 18 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 18)
Follow the diagonal crack up left through a small overhang to a vague ledge. Step right, climb the arete and exit left at the steepening. Has also been done by continuing from the 'vague ledge' up the vague leftwards diagonal (poor pro) to the arete of the chimney (as shown in the topo above).


Recent Ascents

mattbrooksP1Tokyo Roseonsight2011-01-13
mattbrooksP2Tokyo Roseonsight2011-01-13
willmonksP2Tokyo Roseseveral good moves but quite scary if you follow the seam all the way - think you're meant to step R when the gear runs out!onsight182004-09-05
willmonksP1Tokyo Roseloved this pitchonsight181998-09-30

Copyright, ACA, 2012