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The Australian Route Register
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|FA:||Malcolm Matheson, Steve Monks||FA Date:||1988-02-00|
|Start:||Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of Naja. |
|Description:||This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Naturally, it's in "Taipan's Top 5". Be aware that the bolts are bash-ins (with FHs) and are now over 25 years old, although they still look pretty good. PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. |
|Pitch 1:||32m 24 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 24) - 3 bolts|
|Crank off cairn to break, then traverse L for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopy ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up L from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse L to short arete and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap). |
|Pitch 2:||40m 29 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 29) - 8 bolts|
|This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend R across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move L then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 32m off the last bolt (the fixed biner is looking dodgy, please replace).|
Copyright, ACA, 2012