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The Australian Route Register


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  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Taipan Wall
Grade:30 (consensus)
Total Bolts:
FA:Equipped Steve Monks 1990ish?, sent by Dave JonesFA Date:1998-00-00
Author:secretaryEntry Date:2005-11-23
Start:Start as for Serpentine.
Description:After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!).
Pitch 1:25m 27 (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: 27)
Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves. Above the 5th bolt its a bit runout to the anchor (20m rap).
Pitch 2:15m 30 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 30)   - 8 bolts
Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap). Awaiting the obvious extended finish from the guano ledge to the top.


Recent Ascents


Copyright, ACA, 2012