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The Australian Route Register

Groovy (+ The Groove Train)      

This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Taipan Wall
Grade:33 (consensus)
Total Bolts:
FA:Richard Heap (Groovy, Jan '97), Ben Cossey (Groove Train, 16/3/09)FA Date:1997-01-00
Author:secretaryEntry Date:2005-11-23
Start:Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks so consider belaying across.
Description:The original version (Groovy) takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. The new extension (Groove Train) is now the hardest route on the wall, and according to Ethan Pringle is one of the best three 5.14s in the world.
Pitch 1:25m 28 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 28)   - 7 bolts
Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Solid for the grade.
Pitch 2:20m 33 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 33)   - 3 bolts
The Groove Train. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground, not as a separate 2nd pitch. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted up the black streak to a lower off. Obviously, it's affected by seepage. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was worked by a who's who of Australian hard-men for 7 years before Ben's success. Given 33 by Ben, hard 8c+ by Dave Graham, 9a by Ethan ... make up your own mind.


Copyright, ACA, 2012