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The Australian Route Register

Snake Flake      

This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
Area:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Taipan Wall
Grade:26 (consensus)
Length:48mDescent:Lower-off
Style:MixedToprope:No
Total Bolts:
4
FA:Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton and Neil Monteith on 25.5.03). FA Date:1990-00-00
Author:secretaryEntry Date:2005-11-23
Verified:Yes
Start:Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
Description:A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff.
Pitch 1:28m 26 (consensus from 5 ascents; FA grade: 26)   - 4 bolts
Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).
Pitch 2:20m - (consensus from 1 ascents; FA grade: -)
Garry Philips bolted a 2nd pitch / extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). The idea will probably be to climb it as an extension to the first pitch rather than as a separate 2nd pitch. However this version seems mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Snake Flake Direct Extension.

Issues

Recent Ascents

mattbrooksP1Snake Flakefree2011-01-13
mattbrooksP2Snake Flakefree2011-01-13
daaaveP1Snake FlakeJust have to figure the crux. Very cool movefree262010-12-18
adRockP1Snake Flakefree2010-04-16
willmonksP1Snake Flake2/10/05: [1]. 16/9/06: [2] geared 'er up. 17/9/06 [3] sentpink-point262006-09-17



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