The routes database is now read-only. Route information is gradually being migrated to theCrag and this site will eventually be decommissioned.

The ACAQ web site contains information about ongoing policy and access work relating to climbing in Queensland.

For more information, contact Damien Ayers, damien at omad dot net.

The Australian Route Register


This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Taipan Wall
Grade:24 (consensus)
Total Bolts:
FA:Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood FA Date:1992-00-00
Author:secretaryEntry Date:2005-11-23
Start:Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.
Description:Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the ‘weaknesses’, but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack.
Pitch 1:25m 23 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 23)   - 1 bolts
Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).
Pitch 2:25m 24 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 24)   - 3 bolts
Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).
Pitch 3:15m 24 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 24)   - 3 bolts
Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).
Pitch 4:15m 23 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 23)   - 2 bolts
Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake’s DRB.


Recent Ascents

willmonksP1Kaascary hard crux well above shit boltonsight232009-03-09
willmonksP3Kaasteep!second (clean)242007-04-21
willmonksP4Kaaout there, way up the wallflash232007-04-21
bomber proP1Kaaonsight232007-00-00
bomber proP2Kaaonsight242007-00-00
bomber proP3Kaaonsight242007-00-00
bomber proP4Kaaonsight222007-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012