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The Australian Route Register
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|FA:||Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood ||FA Date:||1992-00-00|
|Start:||Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom. |
|Description:||Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the ‘weaknesses’, but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. |
|Pitch 1:||25m 23 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 23) - 1 bolts|
|Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap). |
|Pitch 2:||25m 24 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 24) - 3 bolts|
|Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible). |
|Pitch 3:||15m 24 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 24) - 3 bolts|
|Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo). |
|Pitch 4:||15m 23 (consensus from 2 ascents; FA grade: 23) - 2 bolts|
|Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake’s DRB. |
Copyright, ACA, 2012