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The Australian Route Register

Caves Route      

This route is unlocked for editing.
  - South East Queensland
    - 03 - Glasshouse Mountains
      - Mt Tibrogargan
        - Ground Level - Carborundum Wall
Grade:4 (consensus)
FA:Bert SalmonFA Date:1926-06-06
Author:gremlinEntry Date:2006-03-28
Start:20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.
Description:Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB.
Pitch 1:20m 4 (consensus from 5 ascents; FA grade: 4)
Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.
Pitch 2:30m 4 (consensus from 5 ascents; FA grade: 4)
Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R.
Pitch 3:100m - (consensus from 5 ascents; FA grade: -)
From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again.
Pitch 4:150m 4 (consensus from 4 ascents; FA grade: 4)
Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to Trojan, then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge. This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.


Recent Ascents

BailesP1Caves Routesolo2008-07-12
BailesP2Caves Routesolo2008-07-12
BailesP3Caves Routesecond (clean)2008-07-12
alpinedanP1Caves Route1st Pitch - Basic bushbashingfree2007-00-00
alpinedanP2Caves Route2nd Pitch - Personally, Id upgrade it to grade 6 for this pitch. I love this pitch, up to the rap station, then a traverse right over a nice drop and up into the cave... fantastic!free2007-00-00
alpinedanP3Caves Route3rd Pitch - Easy moves.free2007-00-00
alpinedanP4Caves Route4th Pitch - Even though its very short, Id say 15 for the entry into the Caves route chimney. The tree is long gone, only a dodgy log remains, which offers no help. An easy crank up and into the chimneyfree2007-00-00
ianneilsenP1Caves Routesolo0000-00-00
walpolemP1Caves Routefree0000-00-00
ianneilsenP2Caves Routesolo0000-00-00
walpolemP2Caves Routefree0000-00-00
walpolemP3Caves Routefree0000-00-00
ianneilsenP3Caves Routesolo0000-00-00
walpolemP4Caves Routefree0000-00-00
ianneilsenP4Caves Routesolo0000-00-00

Copyright, ACA, 2012