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The Australian Route Register

Simpleton      

This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
Area:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Central Buttress (+ Sabre Gully)
Grade:18 (consensus)
Length:85mDescent:Rap-anchor
Style:MixedToprope:No
Total Bolts:
2
FA:Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Michael Stone 14.5.66. FA Dave Mudie 1975FA Date:1966-05-14
Author:willmonksEntry Date:2007-10-25
Verified:Yes
Start:Start as for Gross Encounters, 1m R of gully.
Description:A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below Technical Ecstasy and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for Technical Ecstasy. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).
Pitch 1:30m 18 (consensus from 3 ascents; FA grade: 18)
Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from Technical Ecstasy comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.
Pitch 2:35m 18 (consensus from 3 ascents; FA grade: 18)   - 2 bolts
Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.
Pitch 3:20m 18 (consensus from 3 ascents; FA grade: 18)
On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

Issues

Recent Ascents

peck1963P1Simpletononsight2008-12-30
peck1963P2Simpletononsight2008-12-30
peck1963P3Simpletononsight2008-12-30
Pat61P1Simpletonfree2008-00-00
Pat61P2Simpletonfree2008-00-00
Pat61P3Simpletonfree2008-00-00
walpolemP1Simpletonfree2006-00-00
walpolemP2Simpletonfree2006-00-00
walpolemP3Simpletonfree2006-00-00



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