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The Australian Route Register

The Long Paddock

This route is locked from editing by the parent crag.
Area:VIC
  - Gariwerd (The Grampians)
    - 01. Northern Grampians - Mt Zero Range
      - 05. Mt. Stapylton Amphitheatre
        - Central Buttress (+ Sabre Gully)
Grade:14 (consensus)
Length:75mDescent:Walk-off
Style:TradToprope:No
FA:Kieran Loughran, Meg SleemanFA Date:1995-12-02
Author:willmonksEntry Date:2007-10-25
Verified:Yes
Start:Start below the above-noted alcove (about 50m R of Cerambycid).
Description:A nice word, paddock: very evocative. Not a bad climb either. A #4 cam would be handy on the final pitch.
Pitch 1:30m 14 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Scramble up into the alcove and traverse out L along a narrow ledge to below the crack. Pull steeply into crack and up crack until it fades. Continue into the flake crack above to belay on a small ledge, about level with the top of the buttress to the R.
Pitch 2:20m 14 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Move to the L end of the belay ledge and follow the line to an area of fragile rock that leads to a terrace at 20m, below the L edge of an awning-like overhang.
Pitch 3:15m 14 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Up steeply just L of the overhang. Step back R above overhang and go up to next terrace. Traverse 5m L to belay below chimney/corner.
Pitch 4:10m 14 (consensus from 0 ascents; FA grade: 14)
Climb steeply up L wall of corner.

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